Replacing a Gulo Spoke
IMPORTANT: Always hold the spoke at the rim-side ferrule when truing or tensioning. Never hold the spoke at the hub-side ferrule or allow the spoke to twist or spin. Any spoke rotation during service can damage the spoke and compromise its strength.
Tools Needed
- Park Tool SW-15 or SW-17 (5mm hex nipple tool)
- Park Tool SW-3 blue spoke wrench (3.96mm)
Step 1 — Prep
- Remove tire and rim tape.
- Clean rim surface with rubbing alcohol.
Step 2 — Remove Damaged Spoke
- Unscrew the spoke from the hub using the SW-3 (or similar spoke wrench) to help break the threadlock.
Step 3 — Prepare the New Spoke
- Apply low-strength threadlocker to the rim-end threads
(spare spokes usually arrive pre-applied). - Apply grease or linseed oil to the hub-end threads.
Step 4 — Install the New Spoke
- Insert the spoke through the rim and align with the hub hole.
- Thread the spoke fully into the hub by hand.Do not force threads.
- Back the spoke out ~⅛ turn to allow slight free play.
Step 5 — Tension the Spoke (Important)
- Hold the spoke on the rim ferrule using the SW-3 spoke wrench.
- Using the SW-15/SW-17, turn the hidden nipple to tension.
⚠️ Critical:
Never hold the spoke at the hub ferrule or allow the spoke to twist.
Spoke wind-up can cause damage and premature failure.
(If you’ve built wheels with bladed spokes, this is the same process.)
Step 6 — Final Tension & True
Continue tensioning until the wheel is true.
Target tensions:
- Front non-drive: ~120 kgf
- Rear drive-side: ~120 kgf
We use the Wheel Fanatyk iGaging tensiometer. Refer to the tension chart for full specs.
| 140 | 63 | 0.49 |
| 160 | 73 | 0.44 |
| 180 | 82 | 0.40 |
| 200 | 91 | 0.36 |
| 210 | 95 | 0.35 |
| 220 | 100 | 0.34 |
| 230 | 104 | 0.33 |
| 240 | 109 | 0.32 |
| 250 | 113 | 0.315 |
| 260 | 118 | 0.31 |
| 270 | 122 | 0.30 |
| 280 | 127 | 0.29 |
| 290 | 132 | 0.28 |
| 300 | 136 | 0.27 |